Chef Jacob Burrell
Flies High with Parachute
“Parachute!” blurts out three-year-old Maceo as his parents rack their brains to come up with a name for their soon-to-be-launched Berawa restaurant.
While it might have seemed like kids’ babble, the preschooler’s comment proved pivotal to the project when days later Fiona came across a friend’s instagram post snapped at Parachute Days—a folk festival in California—which showed music fans hanging on the grass beneath a specially crafted parachute canopy.
Following a hunch, the couple contacted Gabe Korty, the sculptor behind the event’s billowing nylon marquees, and Parachute the restaurant was born. The eatery opened its doors in April, with its standout feature, a canopy fashioned from a vintage military cargo parachute, soaring 64 feet across the surrounding rice fields.
Step inside from 6am to try Parachute’s grab-and-go market of simple yet soothing breakfast staples. Savoury breads and sweet pastries line the glass counter, baked in the brick hearth during the wee hours. Come lunchtime, there’s a choice of vegetarian-leaning lunch plates, sizeable salads and housemade spreads. “We really wanted somewhere that you could just dip in and grab what you need,” says Fiona.
The mood shifts after sunset when they fire up the exposed brick oven outside and table service resumes. Pared-down and focussed on fresh produce, the menu takes traditional form with starters, mains and desserts, with many designed for sharing. Homemade potato focaccia with cashew-scallion butter and woodfired eggplant with coconut yoghurt, herbs and crispy shallots are among the unfussy selection of appetisers.
The Balinese black pig pork ribs served with a sambal bbq are a must, while the locally sourced, woodfired octopus with pumpkin and alioli is also a hit. To accompany the protein-based mains are an enticing selection of vegetables and grains, like the melange of cauliflower, apple, sesame and chilli.
“Our dishes are a reflection of our shared ethos for creating honest, seasonal dishes that are full of flavour. We are market driven with a respect and understanding for local flavours,” says Chef Burrell.
Two breezy outdoor terraces—one beneath the parachute, the other beside the hearth—look out over verdant paddies. There’s also a lawn for the kids to roll around on out front, just beside Fiona’s kitchen garden, where she tends to peppers, eggplants, cherry tomatoes, rosella and leafy greens.
Although the plot isn’t big enough to fully supply the restaurant, it’s a symbolic feature that links back to how the couple first met at David Kinch’s three-star Michelin restaurant Manresa, in Los Gatos, California.
“She was an apprentice at the farm. I used to pick up vegetables from her every day,” says Jacob.
Fiona wants to use the veggie patch and yard for community workshops, introducing kids to organic vegetable-growing firsthand. With so much outdoor space, Parachute is already a popular hang out for the Canggu mums and toddlers, which is exactly the kind of setting the duo were going for, as Fiona explains: “We just wanted to be a good, affordable neighbourhood spot where people could come and hang out with the kids three or four times a week.”
It’s clear that for this pair, a memorable dining experience is about more than what’s on the plate; it spans the coming together of aromas and flavours, the warmth of the surroundings, and friends at the table. And in Parachute, they’ve created exactly this.
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